Delta-Dawn (well, actually about 10:30)

Delta – from La Rapita to L’Ampolla

What’s a Delta? I didn’t know either. It’s not an Australian singer or a country song. In this case, a delta is an area of flat land that is farmed using flood irrigation. Open aqueducts, gates, rushing water, and healthy new growth surround us, creating a landscape both practical and beautiful. The most fascinating part, to me, is the unexpected location of this delta—it sits on a pinnacle of land, surrounded by saltwater and marshy ground. Typically, deltas form where rivers meet larger bodies of water, depositing nutrient-rich sediment that makes the land ideal for farming. Yet here, the land rises above its surroundings, defying the usual expectations of a delta’s geography. The contrast between the fresh, fertile farmland and the briny, untamed marshes nearby is striking. It’s a place where nature and human ingenuity intersect, shaping a landscape that thrives despite its contradictions.

Flamingoes

We decided to travel toward the Delta area to chase down some flamingos. It turned out to be easier than expected—there were squadrons of them everywhere. Watching them fish on land, they looked incredibly graceful and flexible, bending and dipping with ease. However, seeing them take flight was another story. Their tiny, compact bodies stretched out into long, thin forms, with extended necks, legs, and wings, almost as if they were made of elastic. It was both fascinating and a little comical to watch. The contrast between their elegance on land and their awkwardness in the air made them even more endearing. As I observed them, I couldn’t help but compare their movements to my own clumsy attempts at birdwatching. Perhaps my ‘twitching’ skills resemble their mid-air awkwardness more than their poised grace. Either way, it was an unforgettable experience in the heart of the Delta.

Stuff

Tractors

Along the delta roads, some fascinating sights caught our attention. One of the most curious things we noticed was the number of tractors towing other tractors. At first, this seemed rather odd and even a little confusing. Why would so many tractors be towing others? It wasn’t until I took a closer look at the wheels on the towed tractors that everything started to make sense. This region is primarily dedicated to rice farming, and rice fields require constant flooding during the growing season. To navigate the wet, muddy fields, farmers use specialized tractors equipped with large wheels that resemble saw blades. These unique wheels allow them to move efficiently through the waterlogged paddies without getting stuck. However, they would be completely unsuitable for regular roads, likely tearing up the surface. That explained why they were being towed—transporting them this way prevented any damage to the roads.

Horse Gym

The farmer exercising his horses puzzled me at first. Each powerful animal was harnessed to a heavy tyre filled with rocks, dragging it methodically across the paddock. I could only assume this was a way to train the horses to work under a heavy load, building their strength and endurance. It was fascinating to watch their muscles ripple with effort as they pulled forward. I wondered if this was a common practice or just this farmer’s unique training method. Either way, I imagined that if horses needed gym memberships, they would be quite expensive!

Drive anything here

From what I have seen, it looks like as long as it has wheels, you can drive it on the roads. Yes, I do expect horse drawn carts, but I must admit it stirs my enthusiasm when I see ‘mum and dad’ on a Polaris side by side or a four-wheeler cruising down the main street, with registration plates, totally legal. This red buggy below, ‘Yanmar dune buggy’ is also registered…..I want one.

Food

Cooking on open fire

An update on the culinary situation. I was so happy to stumble upon this open grill BBQ in a Cafe. Many others also thought it was a good idea, as the place was packed at 10 o’clock. To put this into perspective, most of Spain doesn’t get out of bed before 10:30, so it was very unusual indeed. Yes, the gas BBQ might be convenient, but the taste of the food fired grill was divine. Might have to make one in the backyard when I get home.

Old Pub

Mandy and I sat down to have a beer for an old family friend. Reg, this one is for you. The pub was a classic. Bottles on the walls were crusty and literally covered in 10mm of dust. Some were over 50 years old and still contained the original content. Rustic timber barrels, some 3 to 4 metres diameter lay around in corners and larger ones suspended on platforms, ceiling height. Talking about the ceiling, it was made from split and woven bamboo. The barmaid was cranky and they definitely had NO vegetarian food.

But it had character, we loved it.

My last meal was a perfectly cooked steak with red wine reduction, raspberry and mandarin separate compotes, rock salt potatoes and sauteed & chargrilled asparagus. YUM

Mainland

The view riding toward the mainland from the Delta was striking. Hillsides appeared to be terraced, although we think it is simply erosion. A busy town lies at the foothills, with the foreground of the image showing a small farm house and fields ready to be flood irrigated.