I’ve always wanted to surf

Five Seals just around the point from where I was surfing.

As the title explains, I have always wanted to learn how to surf. And by surf I mean:
0.5 Use a surf board
1. paddle out in a rip
2. turn around and watch the swell
3. select a wave
4. paddle, lying on the surf board and match the pace of the wave
5. feel the wave lift the board
6. stand up
7. balance on the board
8. use my feet and pressure on the board to steer the board where I wanted to go
9. ride the board all the way to the beach and simply walk off the board on the sand

Today was a big day for me. Today I was successful. Today I learned to surf.
It may have been a 12′ board, the largest that they had to hire.
It may have been 2′ waves, in a sheltered corner.
It may have been with a surf tutor who was simply awesome.
But it was my day and I’m so happy and proud. I think I successfully surfed around 10 or more waves all the way in. Perhaps the same number weren’t so successful. But by the end I was nailing every one.

The feeling of standing and the required foot position made sense. Using my body weight, for and aft for speed and board attitude made sense. Moving around on the board wasn’t a mystery. My balance appeared to work itself out. Thanks heaps Matt.

You rock. http://bermaguisurfschool.com.au/

I rock.

And thankyou to Mandy. For faithfully sitting on the beach, taking photos of me and putting up with me saying …. “look what I just did” and ‘woohooooooooo’.


  1. You look like a pro! Too bad you didn’t make it to Florida this year. My twelve year old grandson could have taught you to surf.

    • Sue it was so much fun. I wish my body was 12 again when I fall off.
      Simply loved it. I will have to do it again further down the coast.

  2. Go Les! So good to fulfil long-held dreams! Sounds like you two are having just the best time exploring.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.